The Queen's Offy
February 12, 2020 - 10:17 AM
Visiting Berry Bros & Rudd at the start of January was truly a treat. The establishment won its place in my heart many years ago, achieving a magical status normally reserved for country houses and art institutions. Yet, BBR is essentially an off license, an offy, a shop. One could describe BBR as the Queen's offy, given the shop's location in the heart of luxury London and proximity to the palaces. Most notably the institution is a wine merchant, supplying and sharing the world's finest wines. I enjoyed some delicious BBR claret during Christmas this year, it certainly didn't disappoint. However, my purpose in visiting BBR was whisky related. Ronnie Cox, BBR Brands Heritage Director, had agreed to sit down and talk to me about his Scotch Story. For those of you unfamiliar with Ronnie, he is somewhat of a whisky legend. Wiry and suave, a treasure trove of scotch history, Ronnie has worked across the world representing our glorious golden liquid. The dark, wonky floored and wooden panelled lobby reminded me of a ship. Might Ronnie come down brandishing a sword or boasting a parrot? How ridiculous, of course not. Rather, Ronnie approached me, the perfect gentleman. Interviewing members of our industry often leaves me feeling like a bit of a nuisance, stealing precious time and asking awkward or unwelcomed questions. However, I couldn’t have been made to feel more at home, I was being hosted not entertained. The pride Ronnie has for BBR was abundantly clear. Rather than jump straight into the interview we started with a full tour. The St James street premise is quite remarkable, a hot bed of social, political and economic history. Much like touring a National Trust property, each room, each item has a story to tell. Yet BBR is no dusty mausoleum. The business continues to thrive, using its vast spaces for hospitality, education and functions. My highlight of the tour was being taken into the Gents by Ronnie to admire the whimsically wonderful wallpaper. It’s not everyday you get escorted into a lavatory (as a lady, I find a bloke’s toilet to be a fascinating and mythical place). Our tour concluded in Ronnie’s quarters, beautifully and traditionally furnished, not a strip light or ceiling panel to be seen. As we chatted, I was particularly struck by a conversation Ronnie fondly recalled between him and his late father. Like all responsible parents, Mr Cox senior took his adolescent son aside to enquire of his future. Seemingly, Ronnie replied by saying he wanted a job which incorporated travel, drinking and socialising. Understandably, Mr Cox senior couldn’t see this as anything more than a pipedream, after all who wouldn’t want a job like that. A dry smile appeared across Ronnie’s face. This is a man who made his dream a reality. Ronnie’s Scotch Story is not only fascinating, but textured and reflective. It is entwined with BBR’s Scotch Story and the path it has trod in bringing and contributing a sense of connoisseurship to the whisky world. I am so grateful to have spent time with Ronnie and to have explored BBR with perhaps its finest export. The second instalment of our conversation is being aired this Thursday at 8pm, with the first part now available on catch-up.
- Kate Johnston
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